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Hmmm, I'm 49 and My dad still calls me when somethings broken.......
burmph!!
Dang it John!!
First I hadda wipe all that SNPA off my keyboard.. made it to bed, had a nice sleep, grabbed some ice tea... opened up the browser... now I'm with the wiping cloth all over again!
TOO funny!
When I was bout 16, my dad let me pack his front wheel bearings..... never said a word when he had to get the bearings replaced cause someone adjusted them too tight! To this day, I do not like messing with wheel bearings!
Wayne
Your egr may be fine. Follow the tunes from the egr to the throttle body. Now remove the throttle body and check those ports for carbon build up. Its an easy fix and 90% of the time it fixes the problem.
I get a dmn light in my truck every time the weather changes or I fill it. I get it when I get on the freeway and mash the throttle without a million miles of warmup (Ford diesel) Usually goes away after a couple of start-stop cycles. If it stays on awhile I have a short list of issues causing it in the past (gas cap, fuel filter o-ring, air filter box loose, etc.) that usually makes it go away.
I get one periodically in the Vette also, mostly after a fill up. Usually goes away after a few start-stop cycles also. I've cleaned the mass air sensor and that usually does it along with a new air filter. That done and a light still on, and if staring at it with a beer has no effect, into the shop it goes. In this world of electronics an old shade tree mechanic does not stand a chance and runs out of options fairly quickly!
I am told repeatedly by dealers and mechanic friends that a steady light is a warning the smog system is doing something wrong. A flashing light is real bad ju-ju.
I get a dmn light in my truck every time the weather changes or I fill it. I get it when I get on the freeway and mash the throttle without a million miles of warmup (Ford diesel) Usually goes away after a couple of start-stop cycles. If it stays on awhile I have a short list of issues causing it in the past (gas cap, fuel filter o-ring, air filter box loose, etc.) that usually makes it go away.
I get one periodically in the Vette also, mostly after a fill up. Usually goes away after a few start-stop cycles also. I've cleaned the mass air sensor and that usually does it along with a new air filter. That done and a light still on, and if staring at it with a beer has no effect, into the shop it goes. In this world of electronics an old shade tree mechanic does not stand a chance and runs out of options fairly quickly!
I am told repeatedly by dealers and mechanic friends that a steady light is a warning the smog system is doing something wrong. A flashing light is real bad ju-ju.
The answer to the electrical problem for us old school shade tree mechanics is to be like and unlimited thing start with old school vehicle and modify with new tech that we can understand for ourselves so you dont need the smoke equip and a throttel body and a motec or a wolf 3d will make it that much faster than a webber
Ah, to have my old 57 chevy back...
Last year I bought snow/ice tires for my wife's Subaru. To make it easy and save the fee twice a year I bought rims too so I could just change em out in the garage. To keep the low pressure light from blazing all winter I added sensors to the rims. Now instead of paying for tire mounting each twice each year, I have to pay $100 to have the sensors reset! The tool is well over $1000 to do it...
I saw something about Rare Bear and Critical Mass not having enough wing to fly, but couldn't find it again, but will submit the following information.
The original wing area of these aircraft was needed to carry such things as guns, ammo, rockets, armor plating, drop tanks, bombs, and Lord knows what else.
An air racer stripped of hard points, and all other unneeded stuff is signiicantly lighter, so doesn't it make sense that less wing area is not needed?
I recall that Blind Man's Bluff weighed in at 8,246 after modifications.
Did someone here once ask about paint on the Bear?
Well...it sort of goes like this. The Bear is painted, as I said earlier, there are a couple of things left. The engine cowlings, and some detail work.
The Bear really looks good, and is just about ready to fly. Yes, they are cutting it close, but it's better to cut it close and be ready, than to miss something along the way and end up with bigger problems.
We were saving update pictures for the official site, but Wayne has been having some major issues getting connected, and he has asked me to share a few of the most recent pictures with you all.
So here are a few that will hopefully hold you over for another day or so. The painted wheels with fresh rubber are now ready for mounting, and tomorrow the gear doors will be installed, and the gear will be cycled.
There are several F1's and Bipes in the RARA hanger, and I also spied a couple of T-6's on the ramp on my home tonight.
Wayners will be making the drive to Reno tomorrow, and I wish him and Linda a not so speedy and safe trip.
1) You get a kid paid $8.00 an hour to drain your oil, change the filter and and then strip the oil drain plug threads on your engine, on your $50,000 truck.
2) It leaks oil all the way back to your house, where the engine expires from lack of oil.
3) The Oil Changer place then says, that's not our fault, You should have kept a better eye on your Oil Level!
4) You have to sue them, to get repairs to your engine done, mean while you shell out the money for a repair and or a rental...
No Thanks, I'll take my truck and car to the dealer, or do it myself.
This actually happened to my sister.... They only stripped the oil drain threads on my truck. I retapped the threads and replaced the plug.... BUT, lesson learned! I will gladly shell out the bucks to do it myself or at the dealer, if I can afford it.... When I can't change the oil myself, anymore, I'll give up driving.
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